As their name represents, Siamese cats originated from felines born in Siam in Thailand. No one can really know how they made it to the American lands during the 19th century. Luckily, the lovely breed has made its way to the country to become one of the most favorite cat breeds.
A Thai manuscript called the Tamra Maew shows a description of the Siamese cats. That book was made between the 14th and 18th centuries which suggests that Siamese cats are a very old breed.
2. Siamese Cats Had Crossed Eyes Before
A lot of Siamese cats once had crossed eyes and kinked tails. Cat experts suggest that these features made the cats unwanted. However, these physical features were thought to be some kind of myth. But today, you can see a cross-eyed Siamese cat.
3. Siamese Cats Have Round Faces
Originally, the Siamese cats had a heavier body and a round face shape. Gradually, they were bred into the fine-boned shape they are today. You can see the variety in Siamese shapes in cat shows, however, some cat breeders still produce Siamese kitten with the traditional look.
4. The Siamese Breed Was Once The World’s Fattest Breed
On average, the male Siamese cat weighs up to 11 to 15 pounds (6.8 kg) and the female ones weigh up to 8 to 12 pounds (5.44 kg). The Guinness World Record does not want to encourage people to overfeed their pets for the sake of being registered. However, a Siamese cat named Katy has claimed the title of the world’s fattest cat earlier in 2003. Katy ended up reaching 50 pounds (22.68 kg) which is equal to the weight of a six-year-old boy.
5. Their Tips Are Temperature-controlled
First things first, Siamese cats have a white coat, dark paws, and ears, have you ever wondered why? Well, it happens because of the temperature-sensitive enzyme that makes the Siamese develop the color in all of their body. Originally, Siamese kittens are born with white fur then they develop their color points weeks later.
6. Siamese Cats Were Treated in a Royal Way
Today, most cats get treatment like royalty. That was the same case hundreds of years ago when many Thailand families treated Siamese cats were treated in a royal way. Siamese cats were thought to have the souls of the family members who had passed away.
7. A U.S President Once Had a Siamese Cat
The first Siamese cat that arrived in the U.S belonged to the president Rutherford B. Hayes‘ wife Lucy as a gift. In 1878, a U.S diplomat working at the consul in Thailand shipped one of the fines Siamese cats to the First Lady. Ever since that time, Siamese cats became one of the most favorite cat breeds of all time.
8. Siamese Cats Were Once Considered Spies
Two Siamese cats were extremely clever that they alerted their owners to hidden microphones at the Dutch Embassy in Moscow, Russia. Both of the cats were sleeping happily while, out of the blue, they started to jump on their paws and clawing the walls. The Ambassador, Henri Helb, thought that they must have figured out something that is not accessible to the human ears. After investigating, they discovered 30 tiny microphones hidden behind those walls.
9. Siamese Cats are Surrounded by Folklore
According to the legend, a clowder Siamese cat was thought to stand to protect the royal golden goblet. Unlike the common beliefs that cats do not care enough to do anything seriously, these Siamese cats took their job very seriously.
10. Siamese Cats Are Very Vocal!
Just make a quick search on YouTube and type “Siamese cat meowing”, you will be amazed by the results you get. There, you will see hundreds of videos of talkative cats meowing and talking to their humans. Siamese cats are expressive animals and are not shy about it. They can loudly express their feelings, needs or demands for attention with loud meows! Their meows have always been said to be as loud as that of a baby crying.
Siamese cats are one of the most famous, loved cat breeds of all time. They are energetic, active and affectionate cats. They do make the perfect pet for families with energetic members or children. They are known for living for a long time, so you can have fun with that energetic sweet cat for a long time.
If you are looking for a cat that has loads of character, endless energy yet is extremely affectionate too then consider a Bengal. These beautiful cats have fast become one of the most popular shorthaired breeds in the world, having only achieved Championship status with the GCCF in 2005.
Traces
of the breed’s wild ancestry can still be found in their highly intelligent,
alert and mischievous nature.
They
are bouncy, boisterous and full of fun and definitely want to be noticed!
It is possible to tame their wilder instincts by teaching them clear boundaries and curbing unruly behavior while they are young. Any attempts to jump onto the kitchen worktop or climb your curtains should be met with a clear and firm “No!”. Bengal cats are intelligent cats and will soon learn not to do these things, leaving you with a playful, enthusiastic, yet well-behaved pet.
History of Bengal Cats
Bengal cats originate from Arizona, USA where, in 1963, Jean Mill was credited with the first mating between an Asian Leopard Cat (ALC) and a domestic cat.
She was hoping to produce a sweet natured pet cat that resembled a mini leopard so that people would be less tempted to keep a real wild cat as a pet or be tempted to wear their fur.
At
the time it was believed that ALCs had partial immunity to feline leukemia and
research was undertaken with the aim of genetically transferring this immunity
to the resulting hybrid cats.
Sadly,
this wasn’t the case but these hybrids formed the basis of the Bengal breed.
Breeding programs continued around the world and are responsible for bringing us the beautiful Bengal cat we know today. Although they are lively and can be full of mischief, most modern-day Bengals are far removed from their wild ancestors, but they still maintain the exotic look. Their coats can be spotted or marbled, are glossy, sleek and as smooth as satin. The appearance of being ‘dusted’ with gold or pearly glitter (stunning when caught in sunlight) is the result of a lack of pigment in the hair tips.
Being
a very active breed, they do need plenty of space – a cat-proof fence around
your garden would be a worthwhile investment. They are quite vocal, ranging
from a simple meow to a chirrup and a yowl. They have a more guttural,
urgent-sounding noise to attract your attention when they want it.
Bengal cats have a fascination for water and will happily paddle in it and play for hours with a dripping tap so keep the toilet lid down!
As they are very intelligent animals, Bengal cats need communication with other creatures and with humans too – they aren’t very keen on being left alone.
In fact, they will follow you around the house and eagerly investigate whatever you are doing. A cat tower with platforms, scratching posts and activity toys are a must. Bengals are good at learning how to open doors, cupboards – even fridges! Yet when they are not being so mischievous, most will happily curl up next to you on the sofa and enjoy some affection.
Spotted pattern: Can be random with a tendency to flow horizontally with either spotted, arrowhead or rosetted patterns. The stomach must be spotted (except on Blue-eyed Snow kittens). There are also wide, distinctive necklets on the throat, together with a strong, bold chin strap that may go from jaw to jaw. Light-colored ‘spectacles’ should preferably extend into vertical streaks which may be outlined by an ‘M” marking on the forehead.
Broken
streaks or spots extend over the head, either side of a complex scarab mark.
Marble pattern: Bengal cats have a unique pattern of random, horizontally aligned swirls that are not found on other breeds of cat. No other cat displays the gold or pearl dusting effect of the Bengal cat.
Bengals Breed standards
Head & neck: A broad medium wedge with rounded contours, slightly longer than it is wide, with high cheekbones. The head should be rather small in proportion to the body but not taken to extremes. The profile has a gentle curve from the forehead to the bridge of the nose.
The line of the bridge of the nose extends to the nose leather, making a very slight concave curve. The nose is large and broad with a rounded, strong chin that aligns with the tip of the nose in profile, and pronounced whisker pads created by the widely set canine teeth. The neck should be thick, muscular and in proportion to the body. Allowance should be made for jowls in adult males.
Ears: Medium to small, short with a wide base and rounded tip. Set as much on the side as on the top of the head, following the contour of the face in the front view and pointing forward in profile. There may be a light Colored ‘thumbprint’ on the back of each ear. Light horizontal furnishings are acceptable but ear tufts are undesirable.
Eyes: Almost round, oval preferred, large but not bold. Set on a slight slant towards the base of the ear. Eye color is independent of coat color. The richer and more depth of color, the better.
Body: Long, sleek and muscular (one of the most distinguishing features, particularly in males). Large to medium and robust with hindquarters slightly higher than the shoulders, showing a depth of flank. The frame is sturdy and firm – never delicate.
Legs & paws: Legs should be of medium length, strong and muscular. The hind legs should be a little longer than the front and be more robust. Paws are large and rounded.
Tail: Medium length, thick and even, with a rounded tip; may be tapered towards the end.
Coat: Short to medium length, very dense, luxurious and soft to the touch. Allowance should be made for a slightly longer coat in kittens.
Bengal Cat Colors
Brown Tabby
All variations are allowed but a high degree of reddish-brown (Rufus) color yielding a yellow, buff, golden or orange ground color is preferred. Markings may be black or various shades of brown. A very pale color, preferably white, is highly desirable on the whisker pads and chin and may extend onto the chest, underside and inner legs. Alternatively, the chest, underside, and inner legs may be pale in contrast to the ground color of the flanks and back. White or very light-colored spectacles encircling the eyes are desirable.
The eye rims, lips and nose leather should be outlined in black; the center of nose leather should be brick red.
Paw pads and the tail tip must be black. Preference should be given to marbled cats with three or more shades; that is, ground color, markings and dark outlining of these markings. The overall appearance should be of gold dusting.
Eye color – gold, green or hazel; deep shades preferred.
Blue-eyed Snow
The ground Color should be ivory to cream. Pattern may vary in color from charcoal to dark or light brown with light Colored spectacles, whisker pads, and chin.
Eye rims, lips and noseleather should be outlined in black; the center of nose leather should be brick red.
Paw pads should be brown with rosy undertones. Color may be darker on the points than on the body; as little contrast as possible is preferred.
The tail tip must be dark brown or charcoal. The overall appearance should be of pearl dusting.
Eye Color – blue, deep shades preferred.
AOC-eyed Snow
Ground color should be ivory to tan, with the pattern clearly visible. Pattern may be charcoal or shades of brown with light Colored spectacles, whisker pads, and chin.
Eye rims, lips and nose leather should be outlined in black and the center of nose leather should be brick red.
Paw pads should be dark brown with rosy undertones.
The tail tip must be dark brown or charcoal. The overall appearance should be of pearl dusting.
Eye color – gold, green or blue-green.
Black Silver Tabby
Markings should be black on a silvery-white ground, showing extreme contrast. The base of the hair should be glacial white. A very pale, preferably silvery-white, is highly desirable on the whisker pads and chin and may extend onto the chest, underside and inner legs. Silvery-White spectacles encircling the eyes are desirable.
Eye rims, lips, and nose leather should be outlined in black; the center of nose leather should be brick red, although a black nose leather is acceptable.
There should be no tarnish (brown pigmentation) present in the coat color. The overall appearance should be of diamond dusting but this is not essential.
Eye color – gold, green or hazel; deep shades preferred.
Blue-eyed Silver Snow
Markings may vary from charcoal or shades of brown on a silvery-white ground showing good contrast. The base of the hair should be glacial white. A very pale Color, preferably silvery-white, is highly desirable on the whisker pads and chin and may extend to the chest, underside and inner legs. Silvery-white spectacles encircling the eyes are desirable.
Eye rims, lips and nose leather should be outlined in black; the center of nose leather should be brick red, although a black nose leather is acceptable.
Paw pads should be brown with rosy undertones.
The tail tip must be dark brown or charcoal. Color may be darker on the points than on the body; as little contrast as possible between the points and the body is preferred.
There should be no tarnish present in the coat color. The overall appearance should be of diamond dusting but this is not essential.
Eye Color – blue; deep shades preferred.
AOC-eyes Silver Snow
Markings may vary from charcoal or shades of brown on a silvery-white ground with the pattern clearly visible. Base of the hair should be glacial white. A very pale color, preferably silvery-white, is highly desirable on the whisker pads and chin and may extend to the chest, underside and inner legs. Silvery-white spectacles encircling the eyes are desirable.
Eye rims, lips, and nose leather should be outlined in black; the center of nose leather should be brick red, although a black nose leather is acceptable.
Paw pads should be brown with rosy undertones. The tail tip must be dark brown or charcoal. Color may be darker on the points than on the body; as little contrast as possible between the points and the body is preferred.
There should be no tarnish present in the coat color. The overall appearance should be of diamond dusting but this is not essential.
Eye Color – gold, green or blue-green.
Blue Spotted & Blue Marble
Markings should be pale blue to blue-gray on a pinkish-mushroom ground color. A very pale color, preferably pinkish-mushroom, is highly desirable on whisker pads and chin and may extend onto the chest, underside and inner legs. Alternatively, the chest, underside, and inner legs may be pale in contrast to the ground Color of flanks and back.
White
or very light-colored spectacles encircling the eyes are desirable.
Eye rims, lips and nose leather should be outlined in slate-gray; the center of nose leather should be dark pink. Paw pads should be mauve-blue.
The tail tip must be dark blue or blue-gray. Preference should be given to marbled cats with three or more shades; that is, ground color, markings and dark outlining of these markings. The overall appearance should be of bluish dusting, giving a platinum sheen.
Eye color – green or hazel, deep shades preferred.
There are several problems associated with using studs from other catteries, the main ones being finding a stud that you like, that is available and that will give you the kittens that you want from your queen.
Having found a stud that you think might be suitable you should check out his cattery to check that you are happy that the cats there are healthy, kept in good condition and well looked after.
The
owner of the stud should ask to see a copy of your queen’s paperwork, to check
that she has been registered for breeding and her vaccinations are up to date.
You need to confirm the same information about the stud.
The stud owner should also ask for your queen to be blood tested, no more than 24 hours before taking her to the stud, to check for certain transmittable diseases, such as FelV (Feline Leukaemia) and FIV (Feline HIV).
The stud owner cannot guarantee that your queen will get pregnant from her stud but most reputable breeders will have a stud contract that offers a second or even a third visit for which you do not have to pay an additional fee.
And don’t forget to check out the cost of using the stud. The fees vary considerably but you should at least expect to pay the price of one ‘pet’ kitten as a stud fee.
It is helpful to know what the jargon means when you see studs advertised:
Closed stud
This is where a stud cannot be used by anyone other than the owner. It may be that the owner has spent a great deal of money buying the stud, perhaps even importing him from overseas, and wants to limit who can have kittens from him. Alternatively, it may be that the owner does not want to risk infection from allowing the stud to mate with any cats from outside their own cattery.
Limited stud
Limited
studs are those where the owner will only allow some queens in to use the stud.
There are many things that may be considered by the owner of a boy at limited
stud.
Queens
will sometimes have to be ‘maidens’ (first mating) or may have to be queens
that have not previously been to another cattery for a mating. Sometimes
limited studs may only be allowed to mate to queens bought from the stud’s
cattery or bought from a cattery that the stud’s owner knows to be free of
infections.
This
is where your reputation as a breeder also becomes important. If the stud owner
knows that you care for your cats and have a clean cattery, with no infections,
then you are far more likely to be allowed to use a boy at limited stud.
Open stud
Some
studs are ‘open’, which means that anybody can use their services, though some
breeders will reserve the right to refuse a girl if their boy needs a rest
period.
Finding a stud for your queen in season
Your
girl should be ‘calling’ or ‘in season’ when you put her in with your chosen
stud cat.
It
can be difficult deciding when is best to send your girl for her first mating.
The first consideration is age – is she old enough, big enough and mature
enough to get pregnant, to carry a litter to full term and then feed them
successfully? The breeder who sold you the girl may be able to give you an idea
of when this might be for your queen.
For
some breeds you may need to consider pyometra – this is an infection of the
uterus which is difficult to treat and can result in the girl having to be spayed.
A contributing factor to getting pyometra is leaving your girl calling too many
times without mating her. If the girl has had at least three adult seasons, you
may decide to mate her, even if she is not as old as you would prefer.
There
are various ways of recognizing when a girl is in season, but even some of
those aren’t foolproof, as some girls show no signs at all when calling
The
obvious one is when the girl ‘calls’ for a mate. Her normal meowing changes to
a loud and very insistent yelling. This may be a couple of times a day or could
go on for hours, both day and night.
Another
clear sign is when she starts behaving in an extremely voluptuous way –
stretching, rolling, rubbing against you and the furniture and then laying on
the floor with her front legs stretched out in front of her and her bottom
stuck up in the air (can be embarrassing if you have visitors of a sensitive
disposition).
If
none of that is obvious, then you can try a couple of tests of your own. Tickle
the girl’s back, just in front of her tail, and if she puts her tail to one side
she is in season. Alternatively, tickle her bottom, underneath her tail, between
her back legs, and watch to see if the tail swishes to one side.
Now is the time to get her to the stud – but don’t leave it to long. There is nothing more frustrating to a stud owner than to have someone bring a girl to them, saying ‘she was in the season last week’. They may have other queens waiting to go in with the same stud and won’t want your girl living with him for weeks until she comes into season again. Get her to stud whilst she is in season and you are most likely going to have a litter of kittens two months later.
Pregnancy
The most common signs of pregnancy happen when the girl is three weeks pregnant. Her nipples will harden and will go pink. So start checking the nipples from three weeks after she was introduced to the stud.
However,
you cannot always use this as a guide as some girls get pink nipples when in
season.
To be absolutely sure, take your girl to the vets to get her scanned to see if she is carrying any kittens. If your vet wants to anesthetize your queen to scan her then I would recommend that you take her elsewhere, as you do not want to risk the kittens.
Also, some vets can palpate the queen’s abdomen, from three weeks of pregnancy, to see if they can feel developing kittens.
For some of your girls, once you get to know them well by observation, you will be able to tell whether they are pregnant just from changes in behavior. Some even get morning sickness!
Medication
My advice for medicating girls who are pregnant is very simple – DON’T, unless it is critical. And if it is critical, make sure that you check any medication thoroughly to ensure that it is safe to use during pregnancy. Make sure your vet knows the queen is pregnant if he is prescribing for her and check out the many articles on the internet.
Feeding pregnant
queens
As her pregnancy progresses, don’t be surprised if your girl starts eating more than usual. After all, she is now eating for two or three… or four or more. If you are using a good quality cat food, then you shouldn’t need to feed any supplements as her normal food will contain everything that she needs.
Allergies
are caused by the individual having an abnormal or inappropriate reaction to something
that the majority would not normally be bothered by.
There has been a great deal of discussion regarding allergies in humans and possible treatments but what about pets? It is definitely the case with cat allergy too.
There
are several possible causes of allergies in cats:
Insects
The
most common cause of skin irritation in cats is one that we are all too aware
of – fleas. To be more exact, it is the flea saliva that causes the problem. It
only takes one flea bite to bring on an allergic reaction which can include scratching
constantly, maybe with loss of fur; licking the fur, especially around the rump
area; red lumps around the neck and back that are really itchy.
If
the cat manages to cause enough damage to his skin by scratching and biting
that it allows a skin infection, antibiotics may need to be prescribed and/or
treatment with a medicated shampoo.
The most effective way to prevent fleas from biting is to use a regular spot on treatments on the cat and wash his bedding and furnishings to keep them clean and flea-free.
Contact
Thankfully this type of allergy is much less common. If the cat’s skin comes into contact with certain things such as detergents, medicines, solvents or other chemicals, it can result in dermatitis. Usually in areas where there isn’t much fur, as the fur acts as a barrier in most cases, so ears, toes, chin, and belly are the most common places for this to be found.
Other types of materials that can cause an allergic reaction in a cat if he is particularly sensitive to one of them are some plants, wool (in a blanket for instance) and various medications.
If
your vet suspects a sensitivity to something other than fleas, they will need
to try to ascertain the substance that seems to be causing the allergy. Several
things may be removed from the cat’s usual environment to see if their
condition improves and then gradually reintroduced.
Food
As
with humans, cats can be allergic to or intolerant of certain ingredients in
their food. The main food culprits for causing an allergic reaction include eggs,
milk, beef, fish and wheat.
The cat will most likely be scratching the front part of his body, head, face, and neck; his ears may swell or become infected; some fur may be lost as a result of the scratching; vomiting and/or diarrhea.
If
your vet suspects your cat may have a food allergy, he might ask you to keep a
food diary for a period, to see if there are any likely indicators. He will
probably put your cat on a food trial for several weeks. This must be strictly
adhered to and will aim to resolve the symptoms.
As the cat allergy is often caused by food that the cat has eaten for a long time, the trial will most likely be food that the cat hasn’t eaten before so that the usual food clears his digestive system. Then, at the end of the trial and if the cat’s allergies have cleared, the usual food may be reintroduced gradually. If the allergy symptoms return, it can safely be assumed that the cause of the problem has been found.
Inhalant
For some cats, breathing in particles from dust, pollen or molds can cause an allergic reaction. The symptoms can be similar to those mentioned above – a red, crusty and often very itchy rash around the cat’s head, neck or back; scabs on the face; hair loss.
The other types of cat allergy mentioned here will usually need to be ruled out before testing for an inhalant. It may be that skin scrapings and fungal cultures are required to determine the cause and your vet may also want to do a blood test.
The ideal solution will be to avoid the source of the allergy if that can be defined. Sometimes it is not possible to confirm one specific irritant. If the cat is living in an environment where there is mold or mildew, that can be treated to eliminate it. Pollen is seasonal and, as any human with hay fever knows, it can make life miserable for a certain length of time each year. Whereas we tend to sneeze and have breathing problems, pollen causes a cat to itch.
If this is the likely cause of the cat allergy there are several ways in which it can be treated. Steroids can be prescribed which will effectively block the allergic reaction.
Some allergens are absorbed through the skin so regular use of a moisturizing, the hypoallergenic shampoo may be advised.
In
severe cases or where the previous two options are believed unsuitable, a
series of injections may be the answer.
Observing your cat’s daily behavior and noticing any changes to it, as well as taking part in regular grooming sessions if he will allow you to, are the best ways to determine if your cat might be suffering an allergy. By discussing any concerns with your vet and understanding the causes and treatments of the cat allergy if one is found, you can help your cat have a better quality of life, free from the symptoms associated with an allergy.
Cavity wall
insulation warning
Research
recently conducted by Cavity Wall Lawyers has shown that badly installed cavity
wall insulation has been found to be the cause of ill health in UK homeowners –
and their pets are affected too.
As a result of the wrongly installed cavity wall insulation, problems such as dampness, insect infestation (e.g.ants), condensation and mold occur.
In a warning to cat owners, Nicky Johnson, Head of Claims at Cavity Wall Lawyers, said: “Many of us will know that mold can make people sick but not many will know about the effects it has on our cats. As they’re much smaller than us, cats are more susceptible to mold-related illnesses and can become sick well before the mold affects a person.”
Common symptoms of mold exposure in cats to watch out for are:
Ask any pet owner who has had to rush to the vet because their pet is injured or waited by the phone to hear their pet has come through an operation ok if they think pet insurance cover is worthwhile and the majority will say ‘yes!’.
When we get a cat or kitten, there are so many other things to buy, not to mention the ongoing costs of cat food, flea treatments, etc. that pet insurance can often be viewed as an unnecessary expense at the time. Then as the weeks pass it can be tempting to think that you might not need it after all. However, should the unthinkable happen and your cat becomes ill or injured, you could be left facing an intolerable decision simply because you can’t afford the treatment to help him.
Depending
on the nature and severity of the illness or injury, your cat could need to
have several courses of treatment, numerous operations or continued medication
for the rest of its life. It goes without saying that something like diabetes
or arthritis can cost far more than a simple short-term infection. As animal
lovers, don’t we owe it to our pets to ensure that they are taken care of, no
matter what happens?
But the costs can start to accumulate even before treatment starts. If your cat has been unwell and the initial diagnosis from the vet seems to be incorrect, tests or investigative procedures may be required in order to confirm the cause of the problem or rule out various possibilities. Advances in diagnostic treatment mean that it is not uncommon for your feline to be referred for a CT or MRI scan which can cost around $1300 alone. According to an online advice site Money Supermarket, X-rays can amount to $390 and blood tests between $130 and $150.
When
you add to that the fact that recent figures show one in three pets need
veterinary treatment each year, it would make sense to consider paying a
monthly insurance premium rather than being faced with a bill in the hundreds,
even thousands, of pounds if your pet becomes ill.
Research
It is worth spending a little time comparing policies from various pet insurance companies as the things covered by their policies and the different premiums you will pay can vary tremendously. You can use the online comparison websites, look at a few companies individually or ring them for information if you don’t have a computer. Several things can affect the premium, including your cat’s age, where you live and any medical history (pre-existing medical conditions are very often excluded – all the more reason to ensure your pet from an early age).
It
can be helpful to read the customer reviews on the websites – the cheaper
companies may not always offer the best or most reliable service. You should
also make sure your cat is up to date with all relevant vaccinations in order
to be fully covered.
If you own more than one cat, some pet insurance companies offer a discount which can be a welcome saving and you should include this point in your research too.
How long?
Ask
if the policy will cover your cat into old age. Some do not. It is cheaper to
pay for an annual policy, renewable every year, but if this excludes an elderly
cat or your cat develops an illness during that twelve months, the insurers may
not be willing to renew the policy. As some insurers exclude pre-existing
conditions, this can be tricky and potentially leave you with hefty bills when
your cat is most likely to require some form of treatment.
The alternative to an annual policy is lifetime cover. These policies are more expensive but mean there is no limit as to how long your cat will receive treatment. However, some impose a maximum financial limit on the amount you can claim so make sure you ask about this before making your decision.
“As animal lovers, don’t we owe it to our pets to ensure that they are taken care of, no matter what happens?”
Gone missing
So far, we have only mentioned illness and injury but what if your cat doesn’t come home one evening or is stolen from your property? Some pet insurance companies will pay towards the cost of producing flyers and posters, placing an advertisement and even offering a reward if this happens to your pet.
Others will include the cost of housing your cat in a cattery if you ever need to be admitted to the hospital and there is no-one else to care for him.
Behavioral issues
Your cat may not necessarily appear to be ill but start behaving in a strange or uncharacteristic way. Alternatively, he could show obvious signs of being stressed. It is likely in such situations that you may need the services of a behaviorist or pet behavior counselor. You have to be referred to one of these by your vet and you will need to pay a fee for their visits or consultations.
The peace of mind in knowing your cat will be looked after, no matter what can be worth its weight in gold. After all, we insure some of our other personal belongings so when it comes to ensuring something as valuable to us as our cat, it shouldn’t really be questioned. Our pets have to be worth it, don’t they?
When
deciding which policy is best for you and your pet, consider the following
points:
Veterinary fees
Third-party liability
Old age cover
Limit on the amount of a claim
The excess you have to pay in the event of a claim
Cremation/burial costs
Behavioral problems
Overseas travel protection
Boarding fees if you need to be hospitalized
Travel expenses
Holiday cancellation (if your pet is ill)
Death from illness or accident
Advertising and rewards for a missing pet
Here is a list of the best pet insurance for your cats and kittens in 2020:
Bengal cats, a beautifully hybrid of the Asian Leopard cat and domestic cat breeds are large-sized on average. The size of full-grown Bengal cats can vary depending on which cats were originally part of their family line. As a matter of fact, they seem to appear larger than their real size because of their musculature.
Typical Bengal Cat Size
The Bengal cats normally weigh from 8 to 15 pounds (6.8 kg). In general, male Bengals are larger than the female ones; they weigh from 10 to 15 pounds (6.8 kg). On the other hand, female Bengals weigh from 8 to 12 pounds (5.44 kg).
What are the Factors Contributing to Full-grown Bengal Cats Size?
The size of the Asian Leopard cat played a key role in dictating the Bengal’s final size. The size of the Bengal cat depends on the cat which was bred with the Asian Leopard cat.
Other breeds include the following:
Egyptian Mau: average weight of 7 to 11 pounds (4.99 kg)
British Shorthair: average weight of 11 to 18 pounds (8.16 kg).
Bombay: average weight of 6 to 11 pounds (4.99 kg)
Abyssinian: average weight of 6 to 10 pounds (4.54 kg)
Ocicat: average weight of 6 to 15 pounds (6.8 kg)
When Does Bengal Kittens Stop Growing?
Bengal kittens do not stop growing, even though they reach adulthood between one and a half to two years. They keep on growing however they do not make a real adult Bengal, they just stop being kittens.
In terms of size, it mainly depends on their age. A Bengal cat under two to three weeks old usually weighs less than 10 ounces (0.38 kg). At three weeks old, they weigh 10 to 18 ounces (0.68 kg). During the next two weeks, this size may increase to double and the cat would weigh around one to two pounds on average. By the time the cat turns three months old, its weight will double again. After another two months, its weight may double again. By five months, Bengal cats will be approaching the lower end of its adult weight at 5 to 10 pounds (4.54 kg).
When does a full-grown Bengal cat stop growing?
In most Bengal cats, full size is reached at two years old, however, some cats can continue to grow until the age of three. Size can also be different, but on average, full-grown Bengal cats will weigh between 6 and 15 pounds (6.8 kg). This is the size range for both male and female cats, though size can vary by gender. Male Bengals typically weigh from 10 to 15 pounds (6.8 kg), on the other hand, Bengal females grow to reach 7 to 10 pounds (4.54 kg) on average.
On average Bengal cats tend to be medium-sized on average. In fact, the breed was meant to be a toy version of a large breed.
Monitoring the Bengal Kitten’s Growth
In general, the variations in weight confuse the new Bengal kitten-parents of the final weight, therefore, we suggest keeping a weight journal to monitor your cat’s growth. That will not only help in answering the question of the final size Bengal cat can get when fully grown but also help you detect any situation where your Bengal fails to live the average life felines of their breed. On top of that, make sure to schedule regular appointments with your cat’s vet to keep your cat’s development on track and keep an eye on their growth as well.
Interesting Facts related to Bengal Cat’s Weight
Some male Bengal cats have been weighed between 20 and 22 pounds (9.98 kg).
You may consider your cat as a healthy Bengal if its weight comes from its muscles, not fats.
The Bengal breed is not prone to get fat or overweight.
Do Bengals Stop Growing When They Mature Sexually?
The answer is no! Most Bengal cats have their first heat cycle around the age of six months.
Why Should You Know a Bengal Cat’s Potential Size?
Bengal cat owners need to learn the potential size of their pets. In general, the owners have to pick the pets according to the size of their home. You should consider the size so you can provide a perfect space for your furry friend. The bigger doesn’t necessarily mean the better, on the contrary. If your house is too big for your Bengal cat, they may get lost while wandering around or fall from high areas while playing.
Joint problems are
more common nowadays in our pets than they are us, with both young and older
cats being affected
If your cat does get a joint problem it can significantly affect their day-to-day life and maintaining good joint health is a lifetime commitment.
So how do we do this? Well, firstly, it is important to give our cats the right joint supplement, containing the right ingredients, in the right composition that the cat will effectively absorb, getting the full benefit from the supplements which will help to support the joints – sounds easy doesn’t it? Well, let’s try to understand it.
A joint supplement is a nutraceutical – nutraceuticals are substances that are required for the normal body structure and function. Nutraceuticals are given orally in a purified form which can help improve the health and the well-being of the cat. However, it’s important to remember that it’s not medication but a feed supplement that is designed to support the healthy function of a joint. Look at your cat now, and imagine that inside the cat’s joint, the bone surface is covered with a thin layer of smooth cartilage which is lubricated with a small amount of joint fluid. This joint fluid allows the bones to glide quite freely over one another with minimum friction.
The most common joint problem is arthritis – this is normally seen in older cats but it can develop in younger cats too. Cats that have got arthritis can suffer discomfort, as the cartilage within the joint becomes less smooth and this results in the bones rubbing together (friction). This increase in friction can be caused after ligament damage, damage to the cartilage/abnormal cartilage development or by a trauma such as a fracture – this is similar to the discomfort that we humans experience.
Another important factor to healthy joints is synovial fluid – this lubricates (feeds) the joint, a bit like oil does on a bicycle. When the joint becomes inflamed, then the synovial fluid becomes less effective, which in turn reduces its feeding of the joint, causing stiffness and pain. In response to this pain, the cat’s body stabilizes the joint by building new bone around it – leading to the cat suffering from further pain and stiffness.
Some signs are obvious but sometimes signs of joint problems are more subtle. Signs to look out for include:
Limping
General stiffness
The cat has difficulty getting up and
jumping
General changes in behavior
Licking a limb or joint – this could be
a sign of the cat is in pain
Sleeping more
Restlessness, as the cat cannot get comfortable in one position
These
are the obvious tell-tale signs but if there’s another symptom that’s not on
the list and you are worried, then please go to your veterinary surgeon.
Why do we give joint
supplements?
Well,
giving a cat joint supplements can help maintain healthy joints by stimulating
the cartilage. These supplements, containing different ingredients, also help
support the joint.
Glucosamine is one of the main substances involved in the joint cartilage, with its main action being to stimulate the formation of new cartilage and help promote the production of collagen in the cartilage – with glucosamine hydrochloride being the purest form of supplement, giving the cat the greatest benefit. Glucosamine also has a mild anti-inflammatory effect with many companies pairing glucosamine with chondroitin, as the two substances have complimentary benefits.
Chondroitin adds the elasticity element to the joints and gives the cartilage in the joint its shock-absorbing properties. The action of chondroitin perfectly complements the actions of glucosamine and the result is a healthy joint.
Other
ingredients that can be found in joint supplements include:
Green-lipped muscle. This contains numerous active substances that can help relieve stiffness and can improve joint mobility.
Joint supplements can also contain omega-3 fatty acids, similar to those found in human supplements; these can aid in an anti-inflammatory action to help soothe stiff joints.
Vitamin E can be added in the joint supplement as this supports the normal structure of the joint’s cartilage. Zinc has the properties to heal the body and is also required for the production of collagen; as I’ve already explained, collagen is the main supportive protein found in the cartilage, ligaments, and tendons in the joint.
So what do we need to look out for? Firstly they are available pretty much everywhere and come in many forms, like a chewable tablet, liquid or as a powder in a capsule. These can be given as a treat, be mixed with food or ingested directly into the cat’s mouth.
Remember,
it is most important that we follow the recommended strength and give the
correct dosage – as some joint supplements need a loading dose to ensure that
the active ingredient reaches a beneficial level in the cat’s system – before
the cat goes down to a maintenance dose for long term use.
As owners, it is important that if we have any concerns about our cat’s joints then we seek veterinary advice. Sadly, joint problems like arthritis are unable to be reversed; however, the discomfort that the cat feels can be managed, and they can continue to lead a good quality of life.
There may be more
than one reason why your cat seems to be more hungry than usual during the cold
winter months but feed more with caution
I don’t know about you but when winter arrives, the evenings are dark and the wind is howling outside, I just want to curl up with a cup of tea and a few biscuits… I just seem to want to eat more when I feel cold! Now I know that’s not good for my waistline but I wonder if it is purely psychological or if people and animals naturally need more ‘fuel’ during the winter months – albeit the correct type of food and not biscuits or other foody treats?
A few years ago, scientists carried out research that studied cats’ eating habits over a four-year period. The cats in the controlled experiment were all given the opportunity to eat as much as they liked from a source that was only available to each cat individually so there was no ‘stealing’. The results showed that the cats did, in fact, eat more food during the winter.
However,
whereas we humans tend to ‘comfort’ eat as a means of lifting our mood (even
temporarily), the reason cats are tempted to eat more is most likely due to
needing to provide more energy to keep themselves warm while outside in colder
temperatures.
Cats
that spend a lot of time outside will need to move around more, either to find
food or just to keep their body at a reasonable temperature. We all know that
if you go out wrapped up during a cold spell, you soon feel warmer if you walk
at a fast pace and we encourage children to run around to get warm.
Using more energy means a cat will need to eat sufficient to replenish it. One study found that cats ate up to 15% more food in wintertime.
Seasonal factors
One
theory that affects both indoor and outdoor cats is that the longer periods of
darkness affect the amount of food and fat stores a cat feels it needs. While
cats that spend most of their time indoors won’t be using more energy to keep
warm, they will still experience longer periods of low light levels. It is believed
that shorter days and cold weather increase their appetite too.
If this is the case, it is really important that we continue to play with our cats throughout the year and are aware of how much they are eating. Taking in too many calories without being energetic enough to burn them off could lead to excess weight gain. As we know, this is not good for our cats’ health and well-being, potentially leading to worries over obesity, diabetes mellitus, and arthritic problems.
Although it’s tempting to snuggle up in front of the fire with a sleepy cat at your side, do make time to encourage them to play with toys such as balls, want toys, and cat-nip stuffed softies. Chasing the dot on the wall from a laser pen is another good way of getting a cat to move around too. Make it energetic and fun and then you will have earned that fireside cuddle!
Feeding outside
If
you leave food and water outside for your cat, don’t forget that it could
freeze. If possible, put down fresh water twice a day. Use a ceramic bowl and
never a metal one as a cat’s tongue can become stuck to the freezing cold
metal.
Wet food is also at risk of freezing and it might be preferable to leave dry food outside for them. However, wet food is easier to digest, meaning they can conserve more energy for keeping warm. If you put down wet food, do check that it hasn’t frozen and replaced with a fresh supply if necessary.
Indoors
If
the area where your cat eats his food gets particularly cold, it may make his
food cold and put him off eating it. Always try to give a cat food at room
temperature as it is far more palatable to them.
Any changes to the food you give your cat should be introduced gradually. Ask your vet for advice if you are unsure.
“It is believed that shorter days and cold weather increase their appetite”
Spraying around the house is very unpleasant and can be distressing for owners – finding the cause for the unsocial behavior is crucial in order to stop it. Cats are clean. It’s one of their main attributes and one of the many reasons they’re one of Britain’s most popular pets. When your cat appears to be rather lax in the house training department, it can be distressing for both cat and owner. If a trip to the vet rules out cystitis or similar urinary problems, then chances are your cat is suffering from some kind of stress. Cats are
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Cats are guaranteed to try and make their presence felt if they don’t like something new on their territory. Foreign smells, new noises or a change to normal routine can make a cat behave completely out of character. So why do cats hate change in their environment? It’s because territory means everything to your cat. His sense of smell is so highly developed that the first whiff of anything new on his patch is automatically regarded as a threat.[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.0.9″][et_pb_column _builder_version=”4.0.9″ type=”4_4″][et_pb_image src=”https://glamorouscats.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cat-Spraying.png” _builder_version=”4.0.9″ hover_enabled=”0″][/et_pb_image][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.0.9″][et_pb_column _builder_version=”4.0.9″ type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.0.9″ hover_enabled=”0″]
Whether a male or female, cats feel the need to mark their territory, not only as a way of warding off potential invaders but also as a method of building a ‘security fence’ around their land. Cats are equipped with their own unique scent dispensers for effective marking, and they use them all the time, probably without you knowing anything about it. Odorless to humans but potently powerful to other cats, feline pheromones are a cat’s unique smell.
Using scent glands at the corner of the mouth, base of the tail and between their toes, cats can deposit their personal brand of pheromone as they slink past the furniture, wall or your cheek. It is a mark of ownership and establishes an invisible security zone. Outdoor marking is important too. Strategic points such as fence posts, trees, plants and virtually anything vertical is marked. It is a core method of communication, as prowling cats pick up clues about who has gone where, when and why. It is also a way of expressing machismo or girl-power to feline passers-by.
Surrounded by their own familiar scent, a cat feels calm and confident in the home environment. If it smells familiar, then it’s ok. But take away the marked piece of furniture, or add a little redecoration, and the scent pattern is disturbed. In a cat’s world, there is only one way to deal with an invader, electrical or otherwise, and that is to attack. Your cat may produce claws, go on a pheromone-spree of marking or drown out any other smells with urine spray – but this is really just a way of overcoming anxiety and claiming what is theirs.
Just about anything can set the cat off; a new baby, a new pet, an uninvited guest through the cat flap. Cats don’t always attack the cause of the problem but take it out on what’s around them. Think of it as when you go to a hotel and you immediately try to make it feel like home by placing your wash bag, hanging up clothes and throwing your shoes on the floor. Cats are doing the same but often do so by marking items that carry their owner’s strongest smell, such as the bed, underwear or shoes. They’re not misbehaving; just consolidating ownership and, in many ways, issuing a cry for help. Punishing the cat will be completely counter-productive.
So how can you avoid upsetting your cat? The best way is to remember to prepare the cat for change and then include them in a period of adjustment. Here are a few tips on how to avoid some common problems:
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show your cat there will be changes to routine in advance by denying him access to the room
where the baby will be sleeping. Play a recording of a baby crying so he can familiarise himself with the noise. Then, when the baby arrives, make a point of including the cat when the baby is around. Lots of strokes and fuss will reassure your cat that he’s loved. Supervised meetings over a period of time will raise and secure the cat’s confidence.
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Give your cat a supervised introduction to the new wallpaper, chair, sofa or television and all the time, give him attention and time to adjust to the smell and change.
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From the first supervised meeting, keep the introductions short and build up the amount of time the pets spend together gradually, so that the established cat can get used to the idea of the new arrival. Never be tempted to rush the relationship. In any situation, all a cat wants to know is that nothing has changed for him and he is still loved as much as ever.
Stale urine is a very unpleasant smell but don’t reach for the bleach as it contains ammonia and chlorine. These are both contained in urine so while the area may smell clean to you, your cat will just be very confused and will feel inclined to mark the area all over again. And don’t be tempted to spray an air freshener as this will introduce yet another invasive smell that will only add to your cat’s stress, again making the problem worse. Instead, use a solution of warm water and a mild biological or pet-friendly detergent. When the area has dried, a quick scrub with a little surgical spirit should help. Do check the item first to make sure it is colorfast.
If you notice your cat has suddenly started scratching or spraying, first take him to the vet for a checkup – there may be a very good medical reason which will reveal the cause of the problem. Once your vet has established that there is no physical health problem, then the matter is behavioral. This will need time and patience to resolve but if you feel you need additional support, you can enlist the help of a behavioral counsellor. You should ask your vet to refer your cat to a counsellor as you will need his recommendation before you can be seen at a consultation.
Most cats will suffer a bout of diarrhea at some time and for a variety of possible reasons so when does it become a problem that needs veterinary advice?
It can be upsetting for any cat owner when they see their cat feeling unwell due to a digestive upset.
However, there are some simple steps that can be taken to help them get back to their normal selves if the diarrhea is mild.
Diarrhea is defined as an increase in frequency, volume or liquid content which leads to unformed feces being produced. The consistency of diarrhea can vary from the feces being soft but slightly formed, to liquid. The color of the feces when the cat has diarrhea can vary from being very dark to being lighter than normal. It is a good idea, if your cat uses a litter tray, to monitor your cat’s feces to see what is normal for them, so you can notice if there are any changes.
In some cases when your cat has diarrhea, you may notice other signs – such as fresh blood or mucus – your cat may also be producing a greater volume of feces at an increased rate and you may also see them straining to pass feces too.
Recommendations for a bland diet should be given; ideally food that is easy to digest, like boiled chicken or white fish.
Smaller meals throughout the day can help. These meals are more digestible so it gives greater time for the stomach to heal.
Plenty of water should be provided. Cats who are suffering with digestive issues may drink more to replace the water that has been lost through the diarrhea.
A probiotic can be used – these are known as ‘good bacteria’. The probiotic performs a specific role in limiting the digestive upset and can quickly help to restore the normal intestinal function.
Once your cat is starting to show the signs of more normal feces, then gradually introduce their normal feed over the course of a few days.
If the cat is showing mild diarrhea then it should normally settle in a couple of days but if the diarrhea is persistent, the symptoms are getting worse or the cat is generally unwell, then speaking to your vet is advisable.
It is important to contact your vet if:
Your cat is being sick, as well as having diarrhea;
You see blood in their feces;
Your cat has gone off their food or seems lethargic;
If your cat is young, elderly or is being treated for another health problem;
If the diarrhea persists or if digestive upset becomes a regular occurrence.
Cats may just have diarrhea occasionally but if your cat suffers from diarrhea on a regular basis then further investigation may be needed from your veterinary surgeon.
There are a number of reasons why your cat can get diarrhea, from eating something they shouldn’t to a sudden change to their diet.
A sudden change of diet can make us all feel unwell and cats are no different. A cat’s stomach can struggle to get used to a new food, especially if it is included into their diet suddenly without a gradual change period. If you are keen to change the food that your cat is currently on, then ideally do it gradually over a period of seven to ten days, whilst mixing a little of the new food with the original food and increasing accordingly. Eventually the new food will replace the original feed.
Another reason for diarrhea could be worms, which are a parasite that live in the cat’s intestinal tract – sometimes any doubt about a worming protocol then speak to your SQP or veterinary surgeon.
A common cause of an upset stomach in cats is a stomach bug, either because of a virus or bacteria. Just like us, there is a wide range of stomach bugs that can cause our cats to have diarrhea. Some stomach bugs can be more serious than others, including Salmonella or Campylobacter. If your cat is showing any other concerning signs then once again seek advice from your veterinary surgeon.
Should your cat have continuous diarrhea, your veterinary surgeon may want to do further investigations; these may include a pooled fecal sample which you will be asked to collect over a three-day period. Three days is ideal as there’s then more of a chance to find the cause of the diarrhea. A blood test may be performed too.
When it comes to diarrhea and your cat is not recovering, then I would recommend speaking to your veterinary surgeon – especially if the diarrhea is showing more symptoms – or if the diarrhea is getting worse. A quick treatment can prevent serious problems.
