Introduction

Have you ever heard about the parrot cat? Yes, they exist.

Once upon a time, there was a man who had a cat. This cat sought for all the attention of its owner, to the point that when he didn’t, the cat transforms into a parrot that landed on the man’s shoulders. How ? By getting behind him and surprising him with a standing jump straight up on to his shoulder. Although the man was 5.75 feet (1.75 m) tall, the cat did a clean standing jump and only came down on the top. Sometimes, he even overpasses the shoulder to land in front of his owner. Amazing right?

Well, if you have a cat, you’ll probably already dealt with a full crazy cat moment. Jumping and running all over the house, turning it into a full mess. You cannot predict what’s going on inside your cat’s head. For them, nothing is off-limits: whether inside of boxes, underneath a bed, on top of your keyboard. It’s all fair game to a cat that wants to play, rest, hide, or is just plain curious. After all, their graceful, elegant and aloof character is no way far from their willing. To be at the top. You certainly have watched your cats jumping so high, reaching the trees and getting over the garden’s walls. How do they do that?

It is said that the cat’s ancestors probably hunted both; on the ground and in the trees. To survive, they needed not only claws but remarkable balance and aptitude that all cats retained to this day. So how high can they jump ?

How high can domestic cats jump ?

First of all, let’s put in mind that, the taller the cat is, the higher that she can typically jump.

Let’s start straight in by examining the cats’ amazing leaping skills. Gifted with incredibly powerful back legs and lower body legs. According to National Geographic’s Science of Stupid, cats have the capability of jumping up to six times their own height with grace and in point accuracy. Then, what is it in the cat’s leap that leaves us for dust ?  Well, it’s all about evolution and the increase of the kinetic energy for the jump. When preparing to jump, cats adopt a crouch position; this allows her to exploit the full strength of her powerful back legs. When landing she pulls herself up with her back legs by gripping with her claws.

So what is it that makes them capable of doing that ?

A research article in the Journal of Experimental Biology reported that it is the muscles of a cat’s back legs and the length of their limbs that makes them so good at jumping. But the leaping and also the landing of the cat depend highly on their joint health, the strength of their body and their muscles really matters. Small, old or unwell cats, of course, will not be able to jump that high. But for average-sized healthy cats, 2.4 meters is achievable. For beginner’s kitten, they will often jump around strengthening their muscles and upgrading their skills. The mature ones, on the other hand, usually start with a warming up jump to excel their leap. Still, you can find some people training their cats for those high jumps. Don’t be surprised, because you can catch some hilarious videos doing that.

What can cats jump over at home ?

Don’t you ever take your cat for a human baby? Why ? Because hiding away stuff in high places is not an impossible mission. After all the higher it is, the possible it can be reached. Unbelievable ? Then, try hanging up your cat’s toys on the roof, with different height and see the magic happens. Your cat will be able to jump until 6.4 feet (1.95 m) and above. Don’t get jealous if you play basketball! 

The secret is in the combination of the anatomy and the physiology of the cat, without forgetting the technicalities that make him reach all those places. He crouches, hind legs flat on the ground, in the heel off he left up his front paws and stretch fully his legs, and use them to power himself up into the air. With those abilities, you can expect your cat to jump even over your refrigerator, on the top of your door searching for some pure air, or all over your garden’s walls taking a walk by himself maybe.

What are the World Highest Jumps by Cats ?

According to the Guinness World Records, the longest jump by a cat is 213.36 cm (7 ft). It was achieved by a 10 years old cat, Waffle the Warrior Cat, in Big Sur, California, USA, on 30 January 2018.

The world’s record for cats’ highest jump was set in 1993. Back then, Javier Sotomayor of Spain set the record – 2.45 m / 8′.5″! That’s incredibly high, right ? Yet, it’s still just barely higher than your average house cat can jump – let alone the relatively tall domestic cats.

Why are cats so much better at Jumping than dogs ?

It’s obvious!  When we say flexibility we say cats, and when we say endurance we say dogs. 

No one can deny that. Cats and dogs have different body shapes and abilities. Even if your dog could jump as high as your cat, dogs are more likely to land awkwardly. Cats are able to twist in the air to better ensure they land properly. They have different biomechanics and stronger fast-twitch muscle fibers, while dogs have slower twitch muscle fibers. Talking about legs especially, cats use their back legs to jump and the front ones to attack. Dogs use their legs for motion or balance. Also, the range of motion of the cat’s legs, the ability to tight them, to twist in the air while falling is significantly bigger than the dog’s.

If we dive in the wild and compare. Wolves rarely attack big prey directly; they attack in packs by trying to tire the victim down, and attack when it collapses from exhaustion. Wild cats on the other hand attack alone (except lions). They depend on sheer strength, coordination, reflex, flexibility, tail balance, and explosiveness. Observing a domestic cat, for example, he attacks directly, straight away, often jumping catching the prey, trying to knock down and strangle the victim using its strength.

Cats are usually far stronger in relation to their mass especially cat’s legs. A young, healthy, average-sized cat can jump about six times their length. While a young, healthy, average-sized dog can jump about 1–3 times their length. Those results are different depending on the dog’s race, yet for cats, all the breeds are pretty similar. Dogs then have greater endurance but smaller strength and worse motor coordination. That’s also why the cat can leap from far higher without injury when the dog will break his bones easily. Their muscles will not be able to absorb the shock.

Conclusion

Living with a cat that can jump as high as climbing to the refrigerator it’s so cool. Just grab your popcorn bowl and make yourself comfortable enough to have some fun and laugh your lungs out. It will be super active and super energetic, but still, super messy. So be careful to move away from all the expensive and precious furniture and clear the way. Those small natural hunters are about to start the “jumping machine” setting inside them.

But don’t get upset, just admire them and imagine how fun and cool it will be to have the same ability as your cat. If human beings are able to jump an incredible 36 feet (10.97 meters), 6 times their height! It will be incredible, isn’t it ?

Probably the most common and worst summer ailments in cats are parasites. They are not only a cause of serious irritation but if left untreated, can lead to serious health issues. Luckily with the many products available on the market we, as responsible cat owners, can take matters into our own hands and ensure a healthy summer for our felines. Pet owners usually know how their cats are coping in warm weather. It is best to be aware of any potential discomfort.

Precaution

All cats are affected by worms, even kittens may become infected at a very young age. It is important to use products specifically formulated for cats and try to alternate between different brands, as worms can build up a resistance to products. Kittens need to be de-wormed for the first time between six and eight weeks, when they receive their first vaccinations. Then they need to be de-wormed again at 12 and 16 weeks and after that once a month until six months of age. Cats older than six months need to be de-wormed every three months for the rest of their lives.

Fleas

Fleas might seem like a tiny little irritation but can soon lead too much more serious health issues if left untreated. They multiply in no time and spread from pets and lay eggs all over your house. Getting rid of them once settled can be a severe headache, so prevention is surely better than treating the itchy end result.

Fleas have three life stages: eggs, larvae, and adults. Other health issues that they are associated with, apart from itchy bites, include skin allergies and tapeworm infestations. Fleas carry tapeworms and when a cat swallows a flea while grooming herself, she may become infected. They are best controlled with a combination of adulticides and insect growth regulators. This approach breaks the fleas’ life cycle and prevents them from multiplying.

Tapeworms

The tapeworm needs an intermediate host, like a flea, which passes the larval stage of the tapeworm and then to the final host, your cat, where the larvae can develop into an adult tapeworm. Once the tapeworm reaches maturity, in approximately two to three weeks, proglottids break off and leave the body via feces or crawl out of the anus. It has the appearance of rice grains. Once outside the body, the proglottids dry out, releasing the eggs which are eaten by flea larvae or ingested by a rodent and the cycle begins once again.

The most common tapeworm found in cats is Ipylidium Caninum. The proglottids are passed in feces and eaten by flea larvae. Once inside the flea larvae, the egg hatches and becomes Cysticercoid. The flea larvae develops into an adult flea, sucking blood from your cat. The cat ingests the flea during grooming. Once inside the stomach, the flea is broken down and the cystercoid is released. It hooks onto the lining of the small intestinal wall and develops into an adult tapeworm.

Unfortunately there are very few outward symptoms of tapeworm infection. It is usually seen when owners notice rice-like segments around the cat’s anus, feces or in the environment where the cat lives or sleeps. The fur may also take on a poor appearance and heavy infestation may cause your cat to lose weight. You should immediately use an effective de-worming tablet or injection and treat the cat and environment for fleas at the same time.

Bedding should be washed in hot water and all other pets in the household should be treated for fleas and tapeworm.

Ticks

Ticks, typically found in grassland or woodland, can also lead to health problems for your cat. One of the diseases transmitted by ticks is Lyme disease. It is a very serious illness and is caused by the Borrelia bacteria carried by the Ixodes ticks. Hotter summers can cause an increased incidence of the disease and is unfortunately often misdiagnosed by veterinarians.

Symptoms include loss of appetite, raised temperature, lethargy, lameness, painful joints, and enlarged lymph nodes. These symptoms can easily be associated with many other diseases but a blood test can confirm Lyme disease. Treatment includes a course of antibiotics and is only really effective soon after infection, so speedy diagnosis is of the utmost importance.

Warm weather

Signs that your cat is not happy in the heat include heavy panting, bright pink or red tongue and gums, drooling, they may lie down more often or breathe heavily, sweaty palms, restlessness, excessive grooming as a way to cool off.

They may even lose their appetite in heat. It is not a cause for concern but if they eat very little or vomit after eating, you should contact your veterinarian.

Ensure that your cat always has access to clean, cool, freshwater. Brush them regularly to get rid of any extra hair that might be heating them up. Ensure there is always access to a cool and sheltered area inside and out. You can even consider keeping your cat indoors, especially between the hottest hours. Cats with light ears are prone to sunburn, so apply sun lotion to protect them.

There are several problems associated with using studs from other catteries, the main ones being finding a stud that you like, that is available and that will give you the kittens that you want from your queen.

Having found a stud that you think might be suitable you should check out his cattery to check that you are happy that the cats there are healthy, kept in good condition and well looked after.

The owner of the stud should ask to see a copy of your queen’s paperwork, to check that she has been registered for breeding and her vaccinations are up to date. You need to confirm the same information about the stud.

The stud owner should also ask for your queen to be blood tested, no more than 24 hours before taking her to the stud, to check for certain transmittable diseases, such as FelV (Feline Leukaemia) and FIV (Feline HIV).

The stud owner cannot guarantee that your queen will get pregnant from her stud but most reputable breeders will have a stud contract that offers a second or even a third visit for which you do not have to pay an additional fee.

And don’t forget to check out the cost of using the stud. The fees vary considerably but you should at least expect to pay the price of one ‘pet’ kitten as a stud fee.

It is helpful to know what the jargon means when you see studs advertised:

Closed stud

This is where a stud cannot be used by anyone other than the owner. It may be that the owner has spent a great deal of money buying the stud, perhaps even importing him from overseas, and wants to limit who can have kittens from him. Alternatively, it may be that the owner does not want to risk infection from allowing the stud to mate with any cats from outside their own cattery.

Limited stud

Limited studs are those where the owner will only allow some queens in to use the stud. There are many things that may be considered by the owner of a boy at limited stud.

Queens will sometimes have to be ‘maidens’ (first mating) or may have to be queens that have not previously been to another cattery for a mating. Sometimes limited studs may only be allowed to mate to queens bought from the stud’s cattery or bought from a cattery that the stud’s owner knows to be free of infections.

This is where your reputation as a breeder also becomes important. If the stud owner knows that you care for your cats and have a clean cattery, with no infections, then you are far more likely to be allowed to use a boy at limited stud.

Open stud

Some studs are ‘open’, which means that anybody can use their services, though some breeders will reserve the right to refuse a girl if their boy needs a rest period.

Finding a stud for your queen in season

Your girl should be ‘calling’ or ‘in season’ when you put her in with your chosen stud cat.

It can be difficult deciding when is best to send your girl for her first mating. The first consideration is age – is she old enough, big enough and mature enough to get pregnant, to carry a litter to full term and then feed them successfully? The breeder who sold you the girl may be able to give you an idea of when this might be for your queen.

For some breeds you may need to consider pyometra – this is an infection of the uterus which is difficult to treat and can result in the girl having to be spayed. A contributing factor to getting pyometra is leaving your girl calling too many times without mating her. If the girl has had at least three adult seasons, you may decide to mate her, even if she is not as old as you would prefer.

There are various ways of recognizing when a girl is in season, but even some of those aren’t foolproof, as some girls show no signs at all when calling

The obvious one is when the girl ‘calls’ for a mate. Her normal meowing changes to a loud and very insistent yelling. This may be a couple of times a day or could go on for hours, both day and night.

Another clear sign is when she starts behaving in an extremely voluptuous way – stretching, rolling, rubbing against you and the furniture and then laying on the floor with her front legs stretched out in front of her and her bottom stuck up in the air (can be embarrassing if you have visitors of a sensitive disposition).

If none of that is obvious, then you can try a couple of tests of your own. Tickle the girl’s back, just in front of her tail, and if she puts her tail to one side she is in season. Alternatively, tickle her bottom, underneath her tail, between her back legs, and watch to see if the tail swishes to one side.

Now is the time to get her to the stud – but don’t leave it to long. There is nothing more frustrating to a stud owner than to have someone bring a girl to them, saying ‘she was in the season last week’. They may have other queens waiting to go in with the same stud and won’t want your girl living with him for weeks until she comes into season again. Get her to stud whilst she is in season and you are most likely going to have a litter of kittens two months later.

Pregnancy

The most common signs of pregnancy happen when the girl is three weeks pregnant. Her nipples will harden and will go pink. So start checking the nipples from three weeks after she was introduced to the stud.

However, you cannot always use this as a guide as some girls get pink nipples when in season.

To be absolutely sure, take your girl to the vets to get her scanned to see if she is carrying any kittens. If your vet wants to anesthetize your queen to scan her then I would recommend that you take her elsewhere, as you do not want to risk the kittens.

Also, some vets can palpate the queen’s abdomen, from three weeks of pregnancy, to see if they can feel developing kittens.

For some of your girls, once you get to know them well by observation, you will be able to tell whether they are pregnant just from changes in behavior. Some even get morning sickness!

Medication

My advice for medicating girls who are pregnant is very simple – DON’T, unless it is critical. And if it is critical, make sure that you check any medication thoroughly to ensure that it is safe to use during pregnancy. Make sure your vet knows the queen is pregnant if he is prescribing for her and check out the many articles on the internet.

Feeding pregnant queens

As her pregnancy progresses, don’t be surprised if your girl starts eating more than usual. After all, she is now eating for two or three… or four or more. If you are using a good quality cat food, then you shouldn’t need to feed any supplements as her normal food will contain everything that she needs.

There may be more than one reason why your cat seems to be more hungry than usual during the cold winter months but feed more with caution

I don’t know about you but when winter arrives, the evenings are dark and the wind is howling outside, I just want to curl up with a cup of tea and a few biscuits… I just seem to want to eat more when I feel cold! Now I know that’s not good for my waistline but I wonder if it is purely psychological or if people and animals naturally need more ‘fuel’ during the winter months – albeit the correct type of food and not biscuits or other foody treats?

A few years ago, scientists carried out research that studied cats’ eating habits over a four-year period. The cats in the controlled experiment were all given the opportunity to eat as much as they liked from a source that was only available to each cat individually so there was no ‘stealing’. The results showed that the cats did, in fact, eat more food during the winter.

However, whereas we humans tend to ‘comfort’ eat as a means of lifting our mood (even temporarily), the reason cats are tempted to eat more is most likely due to needing to provide more energy to keep themselves warm while outside in colder temperatures.

Cats that spend a lot of time outside will need to move around more, either to find food or just to keep their body at a reasonable temperature. We all know that if you go out wrapped up during a cold spell, you soon feel warmer if you walk at a fast pace and we encourage children to run around to get warm.

Using more energy means a cat will need to eat sufficient to replenish it. One study found that cats ate up to 15% more food in wintertime.

Seasonal factors

One theory that affects both indoor and outdoor cats is that the longer periods of darkness affect the amount of food and fat stores a cat feels it needs. While cats that spend most of their time indoors won’t be using more energy to keep warm, they will still experience longer periods of low light levels. It is believed that shorter days and cold weather increase their appetite too.

If this is the case, it is really important that we continue to play with our cats throughout the year and are aware of how much they are eating. Taking in too many calories without being energetic enough to burn them off could lead to excess weight gain. As we know, this is not good for our cats’ health and well-being, potentially leading to worries over obesity, diabetes mellitus, and arthritic problems.

Although it’s tempting to snuggle up in front of the fire with a sleepy cat at your side, do make time to encourage them to play with toys such as balls, want toys, and cat-nip stuffed softies. Chasing the dot on the wall from a laser pen is another good way of getting a cat to move around too. Make it energetic and fun and then you will have earned that fireside cuddle!

Feeding outside

If you leave food and water outside for your cat, don’t forget that it could freeze. If possible, put down fresh water twice a day. Use a ceramic bowl and never a metal one as a cat’s tongue can become stuck to the freezing cold metal.

Wet food is also at risk of freezing and it might be preferable to leave dry food outside for them. However, wet food is easier to digest, meaning they can conserve more energy for keeping warm. If you put down wet food, do check that it hasn’t frozen and replaced with a fresh supply if necessary.

Indoors

If the area where your cat eats his food gets particularly cold, it may make his food cold and put him off eating it. Always try to give a cat food at room temperature as it is far more palatable to them.

Any changes to the food you give your cat should be introduced gradually. Ask your vet for advice if you are unsure.

“It is believed that shorter days and cold weather increase their appetite”

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Spraying around the house is very unpleasant and can be distressing for owners – finding the cause for the unsocial behavior is crucial in order to stop it.
Cats are clean. It’s one of their main attributes and one of the many reasons they’re one of Britain’s most popular pets. When your cat appears to be rather lax in the house training department, it can be distressing for both cat and owner.
If a trip to the vet rules out cystitis or similar urinary problems, then chances are your cat is suffering from some kind of stress. Cats are

[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column _builder_version=”4.0.9″ type=”1_2″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.0.9″ hover_enabled=”0″]more prone to anxiety than owners often believe. Cats are guaranteed to try and make their presence felt if they don’t like something new on their territory. Foreign smells, new noises or a change to normal routine can make a cat behave completely out of character. So why do cats hate change in their environment? It’s because territory means everything to your cat. His sense of smell is so highly developed that the first whiff of anything new on his patch is automatically regarded as a threat.[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.0.9″][et_pb_column _builder_version=”4.0.9″ type=”4_4″][et_pb_image src=”https://glamorouscats.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cat-Spraying.png” _builder_version=”4.0.9″ hover_enabled=”0″][/et_pb_image][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.0.9″][et_pb_column _builder_version=”4.0.9″ type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.0.9″ hover_enabled=”0″]

Whether a male or female, cats feel the need to mark their territory, not only as a way of warding off potential invaders but also as a method of building a ‘security fence’ around their land. Cats are equipped with their own unique scent dispensers for effective marking, and they use them all the time, probably without you knowing anything about it. Odorless to humans but potently powerful to other cats, feline pheromones are a cat’s unique smell.

Using scent glands at the corner of the mouth, base of the tail and between their toes, cats can deposit their personal brand of pheromone as they slink past the furniture, wall or your cheek. It is a mark of ownership and establishes an invisible security zone. Outdoor marking is important too. Strategic points such as fence posts, trees, plants and virtually anything vertical is marked. It is a core method of communication, as prowling cats pick up clues about who has gone where, when and why. It is also a way of expressing machismo or girl-power to feline passers-by.

Surrounded by their own familiar scent, a cat feels calm and confident in the home environment. If it smells familiar, then it’s ok. But take away the marked piece of furniture, or add a little redecoration, and the scent pattern is disturbed. In a cat’s world, there is only one way to deal with an invader, electrical or otherwise, and that is to attack. Your cat may produce claws, go on a pheromone-spree of marking or drown out any other smells with urine spray – but this is really just a way of overcoming anxiety and claiming what is theirs.

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A cry for help

Just about anything can set the cat off; a new baby, a new pet, an uninvited guest through the cat flap. Cats don’t always attack the cause of the problem but take it out on what’s around them.
Think of it as when you go to a hotel and you immediately try to make it feel like home by placing your wash bag, hanging up clothes and throwing your shoes on the floor. Cats are doing the same but often do so by marking items that carry their owner’s strongest smell, such as the bed, underwear or shoes.
They’re not misbehaving; just consolidating ownership and, in many ways, issuing a cry for help. Punishing the cat will be completely counter-productive.

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So how can you avoid upsetting your cat? The best way is to remember to prepare the cat for change and then include them in a period of adjustment. Here are a few tips on how to avoid some common problems:

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show your cat there will be changes to routine in advance by denying him access to the room

where the baby will be sleeping. Play a recording of a baby crying so he can familiarise himself with the noise. Then, when the baby arrives, make a point of including the cat when the baby is around. Lots of strokes and fuss will reassure your cat that he’s loved. Supervised meetings over a period of time will raise and secure the cat’s confidence.

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Give your cat a supervised introduction to the new wallpaper, chair, sofa or television and all the time, give him attention and time to adjust to the smell and change.

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From the first supervised meeting, keep the introductions short and build up the amount of time the pets spend together gradually, so that the established cat can get used to the idea of the new arrival. Never be tempted to rush the relationship. In any situation, all a cat wants to know is that nothing has changed for him and he is still loved as much as ever.

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What to do?

Stale urine is a very unpleasant smell but don’t reach for the bleach as it contains ammonia and chlorine.
These are both contained in urine so while the area may smell clean to you, your cat will just be very confused and will feel inclined to mark the area all over again.
And don’t be tempted to spray an air freshener as this will introduce yet another invasive smell that will only add to your cat’s stress, again making the problem worse.
Instead, use a solution of warm water and a mild biological or pet-friendly detergent. When the area has dried, a quick scrub with a little surgical spirit should help. Do check the item first to make sure it is colorfast.

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Conclusion

If you notice your cat has suddenly started scratching or spraying, first take him to the vet for a checkup – there may be a very good medical reason which will reveal the cause of the problem.
Once your vet has established that there is no physical health problem, then the matter is behavioral. This will need time and patience to resolve but if you feel you need additional support, you can enlist the help of a behavioral counsellor. You should ask your vet to refer your cat to a counsellor as you will need his recommendation before you can be seen at a consultation.

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